This is a Vietnamese dish named not for a cow with some groovy moves but for the shaking skillet that fries it up. It sounded like an easy try for me … but there was an unexpected appearance of my old nemesis anise — a spice that’s just a couple letters off from a bum-bum orifice. (Though bum-bum orifices probably taste better.) Anyway, anise was hiding in the Chinese five-spice powder that this recipe calls for. I knew as soon as that sicky black-licorice smell wafted up from the gyrating pan. Crap, I thought. Anise. But I tried it anyway. And it wasn’t really all that bad. Super tender meat, some greens, and just a hint of bum-bum orifice.